Supply Chain Transparency in Africa
With every new product carrying an eco-logo or green icon of one variety or another, a buyer’s challenge to see through the greenwashing gets ever harder. It can be difficult to spot the difference between enthusiastic marketing and honest transparency.
Well-known as being the pioneers of organic clothing and having achieved so many sustainable firsts within the industry, Mantis World has launched a 3 part film showcasing their African ‘field to garment’ production, to show exactly what transparency can, and should look like.
In the films, CEO and Founder Prama, walks us through the cotton fields at harvest time. We hear directly from the farmers about the differences that organic growing methods make to the soil, to their long-term yields, to their communities. And then we follow the cotton into the vertically integrated factory where it’s spun, knitted and turned into the clothes we buy from the shelves.
‘Transparency is the tool with which we counter greenwashing’ explains Prama. ‘By putting the farmers, the fields, the factory in front of the camera, we show exactly what Mantis and Babybugz mean when we talk about ethical and socially responsible purchasing as well as the benefits of organic cotton and regenerative farming.’
‘When buyers are faced with a brochure or website full of different clothing images, these can all feel like distant concepts, so we hope that by giving life to them on screen, we can reinforce the positive impact all buying decisions can have.’
Dating back three generations, Mantis World’s African roots run deep, around 30% of current production still takes place there. It’s this kind of long-term supplier relationship that is so often missing in today’s world of fast fashion – make it quicker, make it cheaper, drop a supplier and move to the next one at the drop of a hat. Passing an audit, however comprehensive, is one thing, but knowing, trusting what happens when the assessors have left, is another. It’s all about trust; building that takes time and effort on both sides.
Transparency builds trust, accountability, and integrity. It’s defined as being open, honest, and clear in communication & operations, and as making information readily available, accessible, visible and understandable to others. The challenge all apparel brands face is achieving that when their clothing production happens so far from where it’s consumed. Digital passports that map the full supply journey and its environmental impact undoubtedly play a role in this, Mantis World has had QR codes in all their garments since 2020, but data and certifications will only ever be part of story, ‘there’s no replacement for long-standing, in-depth personal connections within the supply chain’ says Prama.
As Mantis World prepares for its 25-year anniversary, Prama remains dedicated to raising awareness about the impact of the fashion industry. ‘It’s said that there is only 60 years of topsoil left’ she explains to camera. ‘It’s incredibly important that this is preserved and conserved. Organic farming is by its very nature regenerative, putting goodness back into the earth, increasing biodiversity and protecting ecosystems.’
When it comes to greenwashing, the onus of responsibility falls to all clothing brands to come clean, to make messaging about clear facts, data and information that informs, rather than just influences. With these videos Mantis and Babybugz have cut straight to the chase – these are the fields, these are the famers, this is the factory. Nothing to hide here. Watch the 3 part film here.
